Hemingway’s Paris Bars

Hemingway kept to a more or less fixed routine in Paris. He would get up around six and write (work) up to two or three in the afternoon. Depending on how busy it was expected to be at home he would either write at home or would go to one of the café’s in the area. La Closerie de Lilas was one of those café’s, but Hemingway frequented also several others. One of which is Café de Flore (172 Boulevard Saint Germain ). This café has started to hand out a literary prize each year since 1994, La Prix de Flore, which consists of a cash sum of money and a glass of white wine every day for a year long.

cafe-de-flore-paris

cafe-de-flore-paris inside

Brasserie Lipp was one of the other café’s Hemingway liked to go to write. The problem with Lipp’s was that he couldn’t always afford it. Starting out as a writer in Paris on only Hadley’s (his first wife) trust funds was not a walk in the park and often they could just afford to buy food and wood for the stove. They did lend money from a host of people and in general had a hard time in making ends meet. This made the visits to Brasserie Lipp limited to the occasions Hemingway would get in some money for one of his newspaper articles or (only later) his short stories.

brasserie-lipp

lipp3-500x333

There were (and are) also bars that Hemingway visited to drink and not to work. He did like to keep those two separated. This are the more well-known bars like Le Dome, Le Select and La Rotonde. All of these bars are situated in the Montparnasse district on the left bank of the Seine. In a relative small area. If one would want to visit all these bars on one evening, one would not have to walk far.

La Rotonde

Hemingway’s quarter

When the Hemingway’s arrived for the first time in Paris they found a small apartment in the 5th arrondissement in the Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, number 74, around the corner of the little square, Place Contrescarpe.

place contrescarpe

The opening lines of his much celebrated work A Moveable Feast paint a vivid picture of this square and the quarter as a whole. Back than it was a poor quarter. It lies a bit hidden and tucked away behind the Pantheon. The main street of the quarter is the Rue Mouffetard which runs down a mild slope from the area right behind the Pantheon to the Place Saint Medard. Half way down this street you will find Place Contrescarpe. It was a square with cheap bars and cafés and the drunks of the arrondissement used to come there to get their fill. Hemingway himself described it as a “cesspool”.

Rue Mouffetard

Although the area was poor and their apartment was small (only 2 rooms) Hemingway and his (first) wife Hadley seemed to be very happy there. The fact that they didn’t had a lot of money themselves didn’t matter in that quarter. For the inhabitants they were the rich Americans. And if truth was told they of course had more money than their average French neighbors. Also, they didn’t need much, one or two bottles of wine and some food. They didn’t spend any money on clothes, but saved to buy art of young, upcoming and back then still unknown artists like Miro.

Rue du Cardinal Lemoine

The area is now a bit more touristic than it was back then, but it is still well worth a few hours of wandering around the small and unknown streets. You will still find genuine Paris bars, the ones Hemingway would stay away from, but also some that he would have gone in, sit down for a drink or two and maybe write some lines…

Hemingway at La Closerie Des Lilas

La Closerie Des Lilas was one of Hemingway’s favorite cafe’s. He used to come there to write and didn’t like it when people would discover his hide out. The cafe is still there on the corner of Boulevard du Montparnasse and Boulevard Saint-Michel. The most inner part of the cafe still houses the original bar and the tables and seats around the bar all have name tags on them. You’ll not only find Hemingway, but also Oscar Wilde, Jean-Paul Sartre and Pablo Picasso. Unfortunately this is not the only bar trying to cash in on its former famous clientele. This in turn has spawned a trend in new bars that have tags attached to their bar and seats that read “Hemingway never sat here”.

La Closerie Des Lilas

Funny thing is that with today’s prices Hemingway could have never afford to drink in La Closerie Des Lilas. A beer is around 10 euro’s and it is a really small one at that too. Something Hemingway in my believe would have objected against knowing his favorable attitude towards beer.

La Closerie Des Lilas

Still La Closerie Des Lilas is worth paying a visit. True, you ‘ll get ripped off but you also get to experience a little of the ‘old days’, the days that Hemingway sat there and was working on one of his Nick Adams stories or maybe put the last words to The sun also rises.

La Closerie Des Lilas

Weird tip: While you are there don’t forget to pay the toilets a visit. One of the most beautiful toilets we have seen ever..

Fishing in the Pyrenees – on route to Pamplona’s San Fermin Festival

Hemingway loved fishing. No wonder he did find this river called the Irati high up in the Spanish Pyrenees. On his way to the festival of San Fermin in Pamplona, (better known as “the running of the bulls”) he used to stop in the village of Burguete to stay in the local inn and would walk every day around 5 miles cross country to get to his favorite fishing spot in the little village of Aribe. Nowadays there is a decent road to Aribe and there is a hotel (ran by a local woman and her Italian husband). He did write a chapter in “The Sun Also Rises” about it all.

Los Banos - Aribe

From where the hotel is it takes you about 5 minutes walking along the river to get to “Los Banos“.  A bend in the river with the ruins of an old bathing-house looking over it. This was Hemingway’s favorite spot to fish for trout. The trout in the Irati river are a special sub species and are no normal brown or rainbow trout, but more colorful and they grow quite big.

Los Banos - The levy

Once done fishing, Hemingway would take the bus to Pamplona to celebrate the festival of San Fermin and run with the bulls. The road from Burguete to Pamplona falls from the high mountains to the plains (where Pamplona lies waiting) which makes it a spectacular trip with lots of great views (and lots of u-turns). It might have been 90 years gone by, but it is all still there…